Pgh photo fair

Challenging the Canon: Olga Yatskevich on Photobook History

Co-founded by Russet Lederman and Olga Yatskevich in 2012, 10x10 Photobooks foster engagement with the global photobook community through the appreciation, dissemination, and understanding of photobooks. The PGH Photo Fair has partnered with 10 x 10 Photobooks on all their previous touring reading rooms, including in 2019 for How We See: Photobooks by Women, which presented a global range of contemporary photobooks by women.

Follow-up project, What They Saw: Historical Photobooks by Women 1843–1999, focuses on historically significant photobooks produced by women. Officially released on 1 November 2021, the book was recently shortlisted for the Paris Photo - Aperture Foundation Catalogue of the Year Award 2021.

Helen Trompeteler spoke with Olga Yatskevich about 10x10’s ongoing exploration of photobook history and the underrepresentation of women in this field. 

How does your own cultural and personal background inform your approach to the photobook? Do you have a particular early experience with a photobook or reading room which inspired your engagement with this art form?

My interest in photography is fairly typical. My grandfather was a serious amateur photographer, I would spend hours looking at family photo albums and often re-arranging photographs. I spent a big part of my life moving between countries, first with my parents as a kid and later for school and work. I was constantly exploring new places and taking photos felt pretty natural. And I’ve always been a book person but my interest in photobook shaped when I moved to NYC. I started making connections with the local photo community, both in person and online. That’s how I met Russet Lederman, my partner in 10x10 Photobooks. I invited Russet and Jeff Gutterman, her husband, to come to a photobook meet-up I was organizing and talk about Japanese photobooks from their extensive collection. In a way that was the beginning of our 10x10 project.

We started 10x10 Photobooks with a very simple idea - to bring to New York contemporary Japanese photobooks, not easily available through regular distribution. We invited ten people to suggest ten photobooks published by Japanese photographers. We brought these books in a pop-up reading room and invited people to come to the space and spend time with the books. The project came together in just about two months. Our first reading room, titled 10x10 Japanese Photobooks, was launched in September 2012 during NY Art Book Fair, and was sponsored by the International Center of Photography.

Histories of the photobook have existed for some years now. For example, Martin Parr and Gerry Badger’s multi-volume history published between 2004-2014 was a high-profile series on this subject. However, the politics of selection is an important consideration. The photography and publishing industries have frequently had their histories shaped by ‘gatekeepers’ with social or financial influence. For example, Helmut Gernsheim and Beaumont Newhall wrote hugely influential books that shaped twentieth-century photo history, neither of which included many women photographers. At 10x10, your collective approach to constructing histories resists this model of selection, incorporating more democratic forums for dialogue across reading rooms, publications, and events. Can you talk a little about this underlying ethos of co-creation?

From the very beginning 10x10 was about community, collaboration, inclusion and diversity. 10x10 was about bringing together people with different backgrounds - publishers, photographers, collectors, writers, designers, curators - and various interests within photography, but with common passion - photobooks. 10x10 wanted to provide a platform for a conversation. Almost a decade later we are a non-profit organization, and our mission is the same - to foster engagement with the global photobook community through an appreciation, dissemination and understanding of photobooks.

We have completed four major reading rooms - focusing on Japanese, American, contemporary Latin American Photobooks and photobooks by women. To put these projects, we brought together a diverse group of contributors. They followed a similar format; our experts were asked to each select a number of photobooks. We also ask each selector to write a short statement to explain what brings these books together, which helps people understand the individual books and to see the connections between them. 

When 10x10 produced How We See, the program of touring reading rooms relied on the tactility of the objects. In interviews at the time, Russet Lederman discussed that 10x10 didn’t include historical works due to the inability to show them and have the public interact with them. One of the aspects of the new book I love is how objects have been photographed to emphasize a wide variety of material histories and qualities. How will this translate into what is shown in the reading rooms program for What They Saw?

We had the photobooks included in all our previous reading rooms. Inviting people in a space where they can touch books, flip through the pages, smell the ink was always essential to us. That’s why we also donated the books from each reading room to a dedicated public library, so people continue to have access to them. Many books discussed in What They Saw are still available for a reasonable price, and we were able to purchase a good portion of them. But there is a number of rare books too, like Anna Atkins’ “Photographs of British Algae: Cyanotype Impressions” (1843-1853). Some of them are unique albums, like the one put together by Kate A. Williams with the cards collected during her travels in Europe to share with friends, or a carte-de-visite album by Arabella Chapman, a Black middle-class woman in Albany, New York; her albums include photographs of friends, family, and leading abolitionists. These types of publications are unique, we hope to create flip through videos to showcase them. We also tried to illustrate them extensively in our publication. We are planning to partner with institutions that already have many of these books in their collection. Our first reading room will be in partnership with the New York Public Library in May 2022. 

Arabella Chapman, Carte-de-Visite Albums, in ‘What They Saw: Historical Photobooks by Women, 1843–1999’. Courtesy 10 x 10 Photobooks

To truly challenge the canon of photo history, I think it is essential to collaborate with experts from other fields – across political, cultural, and social disciplines – as all these factors work towards shaping and constructing knowledge. Can you talk a little about the selection of writers for What They Saw and whether this was a concern?

Producing a publication like this one requires a big team. We invited Mariama Attah who is curator of Open Eye Gallery in Liverpool to write an overview essay. To address the current photobook history, she brings the metaphor of a popular Mercator projection that distorts the relative size of landmasses. She articulates a number of questions we are trying to cover with this project. The book has ten chapters, and we brought scholars, both western and non-western, to write them. These chapters also map key political, cultural and social events that influenced those decades, and briefly mention the books discussed in detail for that chapter putting them in that context. Carole Naggar is a photography historian, and also a writer and poet. Elizabeth Cronin is a curator at the New York Public Library. Paula Kupfer brings a Latin American perspective, while Michiko Kasahara offers a perspective from Japan. Jörg Colberg, originally from Germany and now based in the United States, is a writer, photographer, and educator. 

A huge amount of communal effort went into this publication. Many people contributed to this publication; our acknowledgement list is pretty long. We also had a number of PhD students and researchers who contributed drafting book blurbs. Our designer, Ayumi Higuchi, had an enormous task of putting together all the elements, and I think she did an incredible job.   

There are many practical and structural reasons why women photographers have been omitted or underrepresented in history. Many male-owned nineteenth-century studios relied on female labor, but their names and histories have been largely unrecorded. Sometimes women photographers operated under a pseudonym, or their change of name through marriage means their lives become harder to trace through archival records. As periodicals and the magazine industry boomed during the early twentieth century, images were often reproduced uncredited. Reclaiming and working with historical material within photobooks can be a way to address these omissions. Please can you talk a little about this theme of archival loss or absence - and perhaps give a few favorite examples of innovative photobooks that have addressed this specifically?

There were a number of factors that kept women’s names from the proper acknowledgment in the publication and public eye. To expand this conversation and widen the frame, we had to reconsider our definition of a photobook, so we included individual albums, maquettes, zines and pamphlets. But we are expanding this conversation to include not only women, but make it as inclusive as possible. 

Take for example, Isabel Agnes Cowper, for over 20 years she was the official photographer in the South Kensington Museum but was not credited in any of the publications and remained neglected until recent research and the scrutiny of the museum archives. Now she is recognized as the first woman to hold the title of official museum photographer. Her photographs document museum exhibitions, objects in its collections and the construction of museum facilities. In our publication we included one of the earliest volumes illustrated with her photographs, “Catalogue of the Special Loan Exhibition of Decorative Art Needlework Made Before 1800” published in 1874. 

There are many forms of individual self-publishing. But more broadly, power dynamics are often involved in every stage of the photobook process – editing, captioning, design, circulation. Editing and sequencing especially rarely receive critical study within the history of photography. Many post-war historians emphasized notions of the master photographer at the expense of this broader contextualization of the medium. How can we encourage an approach that moves away from solely focusing on notions of single authorship to acknowledge these wider contributions and contexts?

Women have consistently contributed to the photobook history, and as early as the mid 18th century. However, their contributions were often neglected, misrepresented or diminished. What They Saw starts to identify where we might find these voices. It is important to keep questioning dominant historical narratives, as individual contributions too often get lost or overshadowed. To represent these fragmented and incomplete histories, we included timeline entries that need further research. 

There are examples of women supporting their husbands in their commercial photographic endeavours, and hardly getting any mention. In the 1860s in Japan, Ryu Shima had a studio with her husband and most likely contributed to two albums, her name is not credited. Ashraf os-Saltaneh, an Iranian princess and one of the earliest women photographers in the country, kept her husband’s diary and most likely used her photographs for illustrations. There are so many examples. Uncovering and sharing these stories help us to see a bigger picture.  

Zofia Rydet, Mały człowiek, in ‘What They Saw: Historical Photobooks by Women, 1843–1999’. Courtesy 10 x 10 Photobooks

Especially since the 1970s, women have found a platform at the intersections of theoretical, political, and autobiographical writing in photography. Even before this, photographers such as Dorothy Wilding and Madame Yevonde safe-guarded their place in photo history by writing memoirs, seeking empowerment by telling their story in their own words. So, I’m interested in how women have had to write themselves and their careers into photo history. Jo Spence’s undergraduate thesis was recently published in full for the first time. This exciting revisiting of past visual texts encourages a much richer history and new opportunities for contemporary dialogue. The use of language is an integral part of who is represented and how. Therefore, please can you talk a little about this relationship – how do you see these intersections between life writing and the traditions of the photobook?

Gisèle Freund wrote the first Ph.D. on photography in 1936, and a couple of years later Lucia Moholy, Both a photographer and a scholar, wrote “A Hundred Years of Photography”; it sold out immediately, in forty thousand copies. It was 1942, when Elizabeth McCausland, an American historian and art critic, wrote one of the first essays on the still new medium of the photobook titled Photographic Books. Sadly, her legacy got forgotten over the years, her essay wasn't referenced in any of the recent anthologies. When we launched our How We See project, we also reprinted the essay and had copies available during the reading rooms. Kristen Lubben, in her essay Partial Histories: Looking at Photobooks by Women for “How We See”, talks about McCausland and her contribution. 

A potential critique when drawing attention to creative practice on the grounds of gender alone is that it is, in a way, reductive. The statistics you gathered while producing How We See, and regularly shared by groups such as Women Photograph and Guerilla Girls are irrefutable. Nevertheless, speaking in binaries between male and female gaze can be problematic. How can we make these discussions as inclusive as possible, incorporating non-binary and genderfluid identities into these discussions of photobook history?

Our How We See project, required that all photography contributions in a selected book are women, and those who identify as women. We used the same approach for What They Saw. As we explore the photobook history, inclusivity is one of our primary goals.

The potential of movement that is inherent with photobooks have made them so central to political movements, including second and third-wave feminism. Zines, newspapers, leaflets, pamphlets can all be shared easily, sent cheaply, travel between countries – they are an effective way of circumventing the establishment. Can you talk a little about your views on what constitutes a feminist photobook? How do you see the potential of photobooks as agents of such political action?

What makes a photobook feminist? There is no simple way to define this. In early years access to publishing was rather privileged, and many women who had this access used it to state their independence, economic, sexual or artistic. Today photobooks are versatile, inexpensive and democratic. They can easily travel, share ideas and ultimately empower. 

There are definitely a number of photobooks I would consider as an example in What They Saw. From a late 19th century album made for the Women’s Social and Political Union by Christina Broom and Isabel Marion Seymour with portraits of the Suffragettes to Elsa Dorfman’s “Elsa’s Housebook: A Woman’s Photojournal” which documented the rich social life of a young woman in the 1970s and Abigail Heyman’s "Growing up female: a personal photojournal", giving us a frank portrait of what it means to be female in the United States in the 1970s.

I think a great example of political action is a photobook, a pamphlet to be precise, by Alice Seeley Harris titled “The Camera and the Congo Crime”. Published around 1906, it is one of the earliest examples of a humanitarian photographic campaign. Harris’ images reveal the colonial atrocities endured by the Congolese people. It played a key role in bringing attention to these atrocities committed under King Leopold II. 

Or another, perhaps more known book, and an example of both feminist and protest book is “Immagini del no” (Images of No) published in 1974, with photographs by Paola Mattioli and Anna Candiani. It was published in the wake of the Italian referendum to repeal an earlier law legalizing divorce. It made a direct appeal for political change in women’s issues. 

Christina Broom and Isabel Marion Seymour, WSPU Postcards Album, in ‘What They Saw: Historical Photobooks by Women, 1843–1999’. Courtesy 10 x 10 Photobooks

Paola Mattioli and Anna Candiani, Immagini del no, in ‘What They Saw: Historical Photobooks by Women, 1843–1999’. Courtesy 10 x 10 Photobooks

Many factors impact women’s ability to sustain a creative practice – including class, money, domestic and caring responsibilities. The business aspects of women’s creativity are often completed neglected in photo histories. Historically, there has often been a snobbery around art-making and book-making being seen in this context of commerce. The reality is that to live creatively is often to live fragmentally across many different models of working and living. Does What They Saw invite a provocation to think differently about how we view success? Or, indeed, evaluate and record success within history?

How do we define success? What is our criteria for progress? In early years only women with privileged social positions were able to pursue photography. They were married to someone or came from privileged families. (And obviously, there were other factors, outside gender.) They had the means to purchase equipment, or to learn photography at first as a hobby. These women were trailblazers, they paved the way for others, and considering the context in which they worked, their contributions are extraordinary. 

Each chapter in our publication sets the historical context for the books discussed within it. What are the factors that contributed to making certain books possible? We spent a lot of time searching for photobooks by Black women made between the 1960s and 1980s. We don't know how many women tried to publish books in those years, but as we talked to people it became clear that there was simply no funding for these books. “The Decorative Arts of Africa” by Louise E. Jefferson, released in 1974, is a rare example of a book that did find support. Jefferson was also the first Black woman with a director’s position in the publishing industry. Has that had an impact? These are the questions we are bringing up.

In the past few years, a number of great photobooks were published showing the body of work that was 40 years old, and just did not find recognition it deserved at that time. 

Presenting diverse ethnic, cultural, and geographic backgrounds has been central to What They Saw from its inception. How can we work to ensure against future gaps and omissions in photobook history, in particular the lack of access, support, and funding for photobooks by non-Western women and women of color? How do you think publishers can better support a range of visions that are non-Western?

When we started working on How We See, we conducted research to get an idea on the representation of photobooks by women. The numbers were quite shocking. Photobooks by women made up only 10.5% of the entries in the six major “book-on-books” anthologies, three major photobook publishers had only 16.2% of photobooks by women in their online titles. However, I think if we look at the past three years, we will notice a shift. I think the conversation, on different levels, is very important. It is essential to have editors who are sensitive and consider different voices. We need to engage designers with various backgrounds. We have to continue to advocate for inclusivity within the high-profile sectors of the photobook community. As one puts together exhibitions, publishes photobooks, organizes fairs, acquires books for libraries, manages awards, let’s make sure the process is inclusive. The single story creates stereotypes, and the problem is not that they are untrue, but that they result in incomplete narratives.

Ellen Kolban Thorbecke, People in China: Thirty Two Photographic Studies from Life, in ‘What They Saw: Historical Photobooks by Women, 1843–1999’. Courtesy 10 x 10 Photobooks

Lesley Lawson, Working Women: A Portrait of South Africa’s Black Women Workers, in ‘What They Saw: Historical Photobooks by Women, 1843–1999’. Courtesy 10 x 10 Photobooks

The identity and interests of collectors play an essential part in shaping histories. The MUUS Collection supports What They Saw and its associated research grants. Please can you talk a little about how this relationship with the MUUS Collection started and has evolved? What can you tell us about this year’s research grants and what to expect regarding future programming relating to them?

10x10 Research Grants on Photobook History was initiated and administered by our board members, David Solo and Richard Grosbard, and were launched last Fall. We are grateful to the MUUS Collection, and their generous support of this important initiative. Their mission which is to make visible their photography collection and archives through exhibitions, scholarship, donations, licensing, and the printing of images and books, overlaps with 10x10’s.

With this grant 10x10 contributes to our mission by encouraging and supporting scholarship on under-explored topics in photobook history. The first year’s theme focuses on research into the history of women and photobooks from 1843 to 1999.

We received a good number of submissions and our jury members - Susan Bright, Sarah Meister and Ingrid Masondo – were impressed with the range and strength of research topics. While we originally planned to select two grantees, this year we decided to award three grants, $1,500 each.

Faride Mereb, an artist and independent publisher from Venezuela, will process and digitize archives of Karmele Leizaola, an important contributor to the publishing scene in Venezuela. Yasmine Nachabe Taan, Associate Professor in visual culture at the Lebanese American University, will focus on Catherine Leroy’s photobook “God Cried” (1983), a little-known book about the intense and violent conflicts in Beirut. Uschi Klein, a researcher at University of Brighton, will collect more materials about the life and work of Romanian photographer Clara Spitzer.

We will have public events to share the progress of their research with the photobook community. The high number of submissions indicates that we need to continue to support more research into the history of the photobook.

Lastly, how has your work on this project and with 10x10 Photobooks influenced your own collecting practices?

This is definitely a two-way process, our personal interests in collecting photobooks inform our 10x10 programming. Our projects come together as we engage in long conversations and brainstorming sessions, we try to determine overlooked regions and subjects, bring fresh ideas and share what inspires us. Needless to say, that through our projects I always discover new books, and purchase many of them for my own collection. Photobooks provide an opportunity to meet people, - artists, publishers, designers - support their work and share them with a wider audience.  

What They Saw: Historical Photobooks by Women, 1843–1999. Courtesy 10 x 10 Photobooks

To find out more the work of 10 x 10 Photobooks, visit their website or follow them on Instagram @10x10photobooks

Sotheby’s Photographs at 50: Brandei Estes on Collecting

Brandei Estes is the Head of Photographs at Sotheby’s London, and spent over ten years working in photography and contemporary art galleries in London and Paris before joining Sotheby’s in 2013. Brandei is regularly a judge and nominator for numerous international photography awards including the Prix Pictet and the Deutsche Borse, and served for five years as the Chair for the advisory committee of The Photographers’ Gallery TPG Contemporaries. Brandei also lectures throughout the year on collecting photographs and the photography market for public and private institutions, museums, galleries and fairs.

This year Sotheby’s celebrated the 50th anniversary of its first photographs auction, which took place at Sotheby’s London in 1971. Coinciding with this occasion, Helen Trompeteler spoke with Brandei about the evolution of the art photography market. They discussed what drives her passion for photography and her advice for new collectors.

So, to begin with, please can you tell us about how you first became interested in photography? I understand that your work with David Gill’s collection helped shape your early experiences. So, could you start by telling us a little about that time? 

When I was at university, I studied History of Art and Italian at University College London. And I never took a class over 1850. So, I completely missed photography as a student. I thought I would go into the restoration of paintings. But I met David Gill, by chance, and he offered me a job as his gallery manager. And he's known in the design world and has worked with Zaha Hadid and discovered Grayson Perry and Tom Dixon. He had a personal collection of photographs, which I just fell in love with and found fascinating. I think whatever you do in the art world, it's good to have that foundation and understanding of art history, but I never thought I would make a career in photographs. And from working at David Gill, I met Michael Hoppen and started working for him. And the rest is history. 

Sotheby's was key to establishing the art photography market in the mid-1970s, with numerous landmark sales, such as the Julia Margaret Cameron Herschel album. Please can you talk about a few personal highlights from Sotheby's most recent years, which, in your opinion, have dramatically shaped the market?      

For me, the sale that stands out was the 175 Masterworks to celebrate 175 Years of Photography – Property from Joy of Giving Something Foundation. It happened in New York – each work was a cornerstone for photography - all exemplary prints. It was from such a great collection, and the catalogue showed a work per page with a lovely essay. 

And then, more recently, this year, we had our 50th-anniversary sale. That was a joint effort between the New York department and us in London. It was the first time I think that we've ever done a sale together. So, it was nice to have 25 works sold in New York on one day, and then the next day, the other 25 sold in London. Even though we hung the works in the salerooms, in the galleries, and we could have some visitors as Covid restrictions had been relaxed enough, what was interesting about that sale was that it was all online. 

Right now, it's all about embracing technology and the shift online, which of course, COVID has accelerated. As an auction house, we had already made a lot of investment in online and AI. So, we were quite ahead of the curve. And I think there are some pros and cons, but what's so important is the outreach you can get online. So that was interesting to have this very pivotal sale for 50 years and embracing the new technology. 

Gustave Le Gray, The Pont du Carrousel Seen from the Pont Royal (Pont du Carrousel, vu du pont Royal), 1859. Courtesy Sotheby’s 

 
 

Chris Levine, 'Lightness of Being', 2008. Courtesy Sotheby’s 

Since the late 60s and 70s, with the more widespread establishment of photography departments within museums, major museum retrospectives and monographs often influence commercial value. This relationship between museums and auction houses is complex, especially around the reappraisal of women photographers. What do you see as some of the challenges and opportunities of this ongoing relationship?

I think it's a really good point. And context is so key. When you look at the photo markets, we talk about New York, Paris, London, and arguably New York has the strongest market; by size, volume, but they also have had a history in museums with photo curators. Compared to the UK, MoMA had its first curator in 1940, whereas Tate Modern had its first photography curator in 2009. So, you have this significant disparity between these two locations. 

There’s an ecosystem. And arguably, there are more dedicated photo museums and galleries in Paris and New York than in London. So, this museum creation affects the market. I don't feel like we're at a loss here in London, but we're a bit behind, and we have to catch up. And I think that explains the type of work we see in London compared to New York or Paris. You know, you see the bigger names, the Ansel Adams’, the Edward Weston’s, the super high-value works in New York, and maybe that super high value Man Ray being sold in Paris. And in London, it can happen, but less so - it's also the same with single-owner sales, you don't often see these here. There’s been a really strong push and effort from museums to show photography, so hopefully, it’s changing. 

As our conversation continued, we specifically discussed the need for greater representation of women artists, both within museum programming and commercial spheres:

Looking at photography in a broader context is so important in the wider art market. It’s having those conversations and showing contemporary collectors who don't collect photography how important it is that many women artists use photography to document their work. So, I think that side of museum shows focusing on women is important. If you think of performance artists like Marina Abramović, Ana Mendieta, or Helena Almeida – they were not purely photographers, but photography was a big part of their practice.  So, I think it's more interesting for collectors to have those broader dialogues. I'm not a fan of siloing photography and keeping it separate. I think it's nice to live with and experience art together; there are dialogues between periods and people. 

NFTs have been in the news lately but are controversial due to the harmful environmental impact of crypto technology. In April 2021, Sotheby’s held its first NFT sale. Part of their appeal in an art market context is the trackability of information inherent in the NFT. Brandei commented on this evolving area:

As a company, we are putting a lot of time, effort, and resources into it. I'm still trying to get my head around NFT's, but I want to learn. I think what's interesting for us is to capture that tech crowd, who don’t normally transact in the traditional categories, and translate that interest into a broader sense of collecting. People I've spoken to who are very knowledgeable about NFTs say it caters to that potentially younger generation of collectors who are experienced-led in their spending. I don't think it's the end of what we do with physical, two-dimensional, three-dimensional artworks - I think it would be nice if they can coexist. 

In the last year or so, I've noticed very different models of auction house such as Greenhouse Auctions, for example, which actively pursues philanthropic goals as part of its business model. And during the last year, we've seen private commercial galleries fundraising for COVID relief funds and Black Lives Matter. I wondered if you could say a few words about how you try to align your values with your work at Sotheby's. 

It’s tricky because I have a bottom line, and we're not a charity. So, you want to have personal integrity in the work that you sell, but you also have to make money. So, it’s trying to find that balance. 

Last year I auctioned a photograph by Misan Harriman that he took of a woman holding a sign saying, ‘Why is ending racism still a debate?’ He shot that at one of the Black Lives Matter protests in July here in London. I feel like you have to do things carefully, sensitively, and really think about it. And I felt like that was a good moment, and all the sale proceeds from that photograph benefited blood cancer charity Anthony Nolan. The sale had that charitable side, so it felt meaningful, and that was good to do. 

It’s hard because you can't please everyone, but you have to be really careful with anything political, not that this should be political, but how some people view politics. But then you could also argue that art is always political,but as a traditional auction house, I think we have to be careful what we do and what we align with. But the company does a lot of charitable support and involvement. 

We’re definitely selling more and more women photographers. For us, we sell where there is demand, not that we react 100% to the market – but unless museums, galleries start showing more women, you won’t see that filter through to the market. 

Investing in early career artists is also integral to creating a healthy market. Firstly, please could you talk a little about some of your favorite places to discover new contemporary photographers? And secondly, what are some of the factors you look for to ensure that an ‘emerging’ artist, of any age, holds their value in the art market. 

I'm a big fan of the Photographers’ Gallery, and they do a really good job of having a program that profiles big names but also emerging or overlooked names. I also love TJ Boulting. My favorite place to discover new artists is FOAM, and the show they do every September, which coincides with Unseen.  

Where else would I go? I do look a lot at Instagram. I feel like in the past year, with the pandemic, I've got a lot of really nice things and met amazing photographers through social media.

For me, what I personally look for, it needs to be something that's different from anything you've seen before. If you think of Richard Mosse, when I first saw his installation at the Venice Biennale in 2013, you just had never seen anything like that before. So, what's your USP? What makes you special and stand out?  I look for that if I buy young works myself, but also, for Sotheby's. It’s a tricky balance because I do think emerging artists should first have a solid gallery program.

In the last year or so we have seen increased discussion around the politics of photography, including the legacy of colonialism within photography. I wondered if any of that critical debate has translated into the art market. For example, there are many great collecting initiatives in India and China, which rarely get any coverage in the Western media. Could you talk a little about Sotheby's global strategy and how you engage with such markets?

It’s hard because we’re a small global department. I feel like we're making progress, and we want to do more. We have a big seat in Asia, and you do sometimes see photographs coming up for sale there. We had a beautiful selling exhibition there a couple of years ago of Fan Ho’s work. So, I think things need to change, and these conversations need to be had. I feel like it’s trickling down into the commercial side, but there's a lot of debates and conversations to have.

I know you have a particular passion for fashion photography. Many fashion photographs were originally intended for magazines and the printed page. This genre is an area that has grown significantly in the art market during the last 10 or 15 years. Can you say a little about why that genre particularly appeals to you? And perhaps some of the context for this genre’s transition into the fine art market? 

What interests me a lot was there was so much technical and stylistic innovation that happened in fashion photography. So, I love that there was a development of photography through that filter and purpose, but it was always originally meant for the magazine. 

So, when you look at Guy Bourdin, for example, now you get these massive posthumous prints that are huge, beautiful, luscious color. And you think, gosh, they were intended to be on a magazine. And Guy was very conscious of the gutter. So, when you know that, just wow. 

But equally, some fashion photographers work better in a magazine and in a story sequence. But I think it's just so interesting because, as you say, fashion photography has really taken off in the past 10 to 15 years. And as we know, the market started in the 19th century, which came out of the book sales at auction and then went more towards photojournalism and modernism. So, fashion photography was late to the game, even though and maybe because it was part of our daily consciousness of seeing magazines. 

Think of the Avedon portfolio of Paris and that whole fashion story. And like you said at the beginning, museums making monographs and portfolios changed the market. When the Met had the Avedon show in 1978, that was their first retrospective of a living photographer. And while he wasn't exclusively a fashion photographer, I love that they chose to make a portfolio of his fashion images from the late 40s through to the late 50s. And, of course, that period covered the end of the Second World War. And this idea of rejuvenation, and let's go back to fashion and glamour. Imagine being in America looking at American Vogue, seeing women in Paris dressed in new Dior, not stuck in a studio posing, but living in the fashion and having fun. So, I love all these layers that you have in fashion photography. 

I think people overlook that context now. I feel fashion photography is democratic; it is by nature from its origins in magazines. The prices have gone up for the big names and depending on the scarcity of the image and so forth, but it’s still very accessible and relatable. 

Guy Bourdin, _Mousehole_, Charles Jourdan, Autumn 1979.jpg

Guy Bourdin, ‘Mousehole’, Charles Jourdan, Autumn 1979. Courtesy Sotheby’s 

Masterful technique and handcrafted photographs are crucial drivers for Brandei’s personal collecting. Her collection encompasses diverse themes, including portraiture, architecture, surrealism, and an eclectic range of artists. To close our interview, I asked Brandei what advice she would give to someone just beginning to start their photography collection:

I tell my clients, you shouldn't buy something for the name or the investment value; it doesn't matter if it's 20 pounds or 20,000 pounds; you still have to look at the same criteria. Is it a good print? Is it signed? Does that matter? But do you like it? Is it a color print that's falling apart? If so, know that that you might not have it for much longer. These are all areas that people should understand.

I would say, really try and make friends with experts in the field and build relationships. So, be it a gallerist, an auction house specialist, a curator. How do you do that? Go to exhibition openings, go to photo fairs, and support an institution where you get invited to events directly with photographers. And we all know each other in the photo world, and we will hold each other much more accountable. We want to spread the joy of photography and talk about it. So, I think it's easier for younger collectors to collect because you have that access and proximity to experts that you won't have in other fields. 

Do your homework; it’s so easy now to do research and find what you like. Try and learn the difference between the different techniques because that will be intrinsic to value. Your tastes can change, and you move on, and you evolve. And that's okay, too.

I’m always learning; that’s what makes it fun; every day, I learn something new. For me, bringing photography into conversation with other categories is really important. Photography has always been holistic – it’s not just monetary value but also how important photography has been to so many artistic movements. I think there is a real shift - I’m interested in, and I think collectors are interested in looking more at the craftsmanship and that touch value. I think the value of something made by hand is really interesting; that took time and the whole global story around a work. 

 
 

Marlo Broekmans, Self-Portrait, 1983. Courtesy Brandei Estes

To find out more about Brandei Estes’ work with photography, follow her on Instagram @brandei_estes